OCTOBER 21 - NOVEMBER 4, 2001: After Turkey we head west, along the Greek Islands. First is RHODES, magnificent fortified town where the stone walls and armature which once protected the Knights of St. John now ensure the invincibility of The Body Shop. While commercial on the exterior, within the winding streets we find a wonderful combination of small shops and sights. We also have one of the best French meals we've ever had. 

Next we move on to PATMOS, much smaller, where St. John (this time of the gospels, not the knights) wrote (well, actually dictated) Revelations. We hike up to the cave where he lived, now a shrine and chapel. Even for us secular aesthetics, it is captivating, although my revelation is that neither Heather not I have to go to work for another 30 weeks. In what will become a theme, we rent a scooter and dart around the island (No mom, I did not wear a helmet). The island is barren but interesting, with a few magical coves and the occasional bleating sheep herd. I am reminded of business school. 

After 2 days on PATMOS we ferry off to NAXOS. Day One, seeing a hiking trail on the map from our hotel, we set off. It quickly turns into a death march, with Heather in the role of Alexander, Napoleon, and Genghis Kahn wrapped into one. The trail quickly disappears, and after climbing yet another set of hills, about 3 hours later, we finally come across miles of sparkling, and empty, beaches. Even better, one tavern remains open where we can buy water and beer. A quick dip and we find some kind woman willing to give us a ride back to town. 

On to PAROS -- a splendid island. We visit both Naoussa, on the north coast, a fishing village still dressed in the pristine postcard blue and whites, and scooter down to Lefkes. It is a bit chilly on the scooter, but well worth it. The next day we head over to ANTIPAROS, a 10 minute ferry. It is a homecoming of sorts for me, as I was here 14 years earlier. Much has changed, the three restaurants have become 15 or so, and they now have paved roads. It is somewhat familiar, but only oddly so, and our quick trip to the beach (decked out in sweaters) does not make me 21 again. Still, it is charming. 

Back to PAROS and onto SANTORINI. The latter is majestic; formed when luckily the last night they are open, and have one of the best meals of our lives (Heather interjects: Grecian caviar, rooster with pistachio and white figs, olive bread with feta and red pepper, and a quite amazing Greek syrah from the Attica region). We also spend a night at an upscale and wonderful hotel (Katikis if you are planning a visit) with a pool that drops - visually only - into the bay. 

In the odd behavior department, Heather has started taking pictures of doors. Lots of doors. Like 36 freaking pictures of doors. Go figure.  

A quick flight to the mainland, and we go to the Pelloppenese. First to NAPFLIO, quaint and amazing, with a strong Venetian influence. We climb the 1000 steps to the fortress overlooking the town and wander the small cobblestone streets. Side trips to Mycanae and Mystras to see ruins (the former more impressive in theory, the latter in practice). 

Onto MONEMVASSIA - startling, once part of the mainland it is, post earthquake, on the outer half of a large rock only connected by a causeway. More ruined castles. Lastly, we drive down and quickly ferry to ELAFONISOS, a tiny, speck of an island maybe 500 yards from the mainland. It is quiet, not very touristy, and we join the village in watching a bad American horror movie, subtitled for our hosts. Then, quickly, we drive back over the mountains -- with a brief snow (yes, snow) flurry at the peak -- two days in Athens, in the midst of one of the worst storms in recent history, where we bundle up and see the Parthenon - which is stunning, even in sideways rain. We are staying in a charming part of the old town, which is immune to the heavy building all around the rest of Athens as they prepare for the 2002 Olympics (note: unlikely this will go off without a hitch). If you are following along at home, we have both read The Odyssey (Fagels translation for those of you unable to read the original Greek), which is great. We are amazed at the amount of sheer feasting that occurs, and decide we will do our best to live up to the Homeric tradition. It is also, in the shadow of the Odyssey, worth passing on a quick summary of modern (post 350 AD) Greek military history thus: you want to be on the other side. 

Overall, we are both entranced with Greece - surprisingly easy to navigate, amazingly friendly people, and, helped by the morsel servings of the islands, stunning variety and a plethora of unique sights. And we love the yogurt and honey. On that, we are off. 

on to italy...